About

The Roman Evening is a set of notes about how an evening works in Rome, written by somebody who moved here for a year in 2016 and did not entirely leave.

Almost everything written in English about eating and drinking in Rome is a list of addresses. Addresses change and lists go stale. What does not change is the shape of the evening: when things open, when a room fills, what a cover charge is, why the same bar sells espresso at eight in the morning and vermouth at eight at night.

So this is about the timetable and the customs rather than the venues. Learn those and you can walk into a place nobody has recommended to you and get it right.

No restaurant has paid to be here and nothing is sponsored. Written by Cormac Delaney.